Joubert de la Hiberderie鈥檚 Le Dessinateur d鈥櫭﹖offes d鈥檕r, d鈥檃rgent, et de soie (1765) was the first book to be published on textile design in Europe.听 In preparation for the publication of an English translation and critical edition of the text this one day conference calls for papers that will analyse, critique, contextualise, review or otherwise engage with the Le dessinateur in the light of its themes: production, design, technology, education, botany and art.听 Joubert鈥檚 manual argues for both a liberal and a technological education for the ideal designer.听 Such a person must, he argues, have detailed knowledge of the materials, technologies and traditions of patterned silk in order successfully to propose new designs; he or she must also have taste and an eye for beauty, which call, he says, for travel in order to see both the beauties of nature and those of art gathered in the gardens and galleries of Paris and the 卯le de France.
Programme
9.15 Welcome
9.20 Lesley Miller (The Victoria and Albert Museum), Introduction: Joubert, his book and his world
9.40 Keynote: Giorgio Riello听(Professor of History and Director of the Warwick Institute of Advanced 91制片厂), Textile Trajectories: Fibres, Fabrics and Fashion in the early modern world
10.20 听Jean-Paul Leclerq (formerly curator at the Mus茅e des arts d茅coratifs, Paris), Weave and pattern, naming textiles: Le Dessinateur in a publishing context
11.00 Coffee
11.20听 Isabella Campagnol (Lecturer in the History of Dress, Fashion and Textiles at the Instituto Marangoni, Milan), The Venetian Point of View: Pietro d鈥橝vanzo and the 鈥楻egole per mecanica del telaio da seta鈥
12.00 Rosa Creixell (Lecturer in the History of Art at the University of Barcelona) and Victoria de Lorenzo, Fabricating Novelty: The Barcelona Silk Trade in the Eighteenth Century (The Royal College of Art/Victoria and Albert Museum)
12.40 Discussion
13.00 Lunch
14.00 Anna Jolly (Curator at the Abegg-Stiftung, Switzerland), The Orders of Silk Design
14.40 Maximilien Durand (Director of the Mus茅e des tissus et des arts d茅coratifs de Lyon) and Marie-H茅l猫ne Guelton, 脌 propos de la 鈥渕arque distinctive鈥 de Philippe de Lasalle: surmonter la crise de 1771-1772 en produisant des 茅toffes m茅lang茅es (soie, schappe de soie et lin) au dessin nouveau
15.20 Tea
15.50 Iris Moon (Visiting Assistant Professor at the School of Architecture, Pratt Institute), A Rose is a Rose is a Rose: Botany and Patterns of Knowledge in 鈥楲e Dessinateur d鈥櫭﹖offes d鈥檕r, d鈥檃rgent, et de soie鈥
16.30 Audrey Millet (Lecturer at the Universit茅 de Lille), From the Theory of Joubert to the practice of Henri Lebert: Paris, or the textile designer鈥檚 grand tour (c. 1750-c.1850)
17.10 Madelyn Shaw (Curator of Textiles at the National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington), 鈥楢n Eye for beauty, A Taste for Novelty鈥: The Art Department of H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., 1913-1931
17.50 Closing Discussion